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Norco Camper Awning Replacement

Published May 28, 25
11 min read

Pop Up Camper Roof Repair Norco, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Most campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that about 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is moved into has actually drawn away from the wall and twisted a little bit - Norco Camper Awning Replacement. I'm presuming the fixing will require replacing that whole size of rain seamless gutter (10 feet?) and probably making use of larger gauge screws to replace those that were pulled out

We've obtained damaged brackets on our camper awning. Two months ago, we had a negative tire blow-out that triggered a bent axle, significant repairs, and so on, and we wonder if the braces cracked/broke during the bouncy adventure prior to we understood the axle was in difficulty. We haven't had the awning out given that it was in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime mechanism, etc, is great. The rear bracket setting up is fine, but the front one is split at the base and entirely damaged through at the top, so that the leading support arm no longer attaches to the camper.

Also the actual support arms are intact. They are white steel (? The actual arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm just desiring to make certain we're not being taken in out of our desperation (Norco Camper Awning Replacement).

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The Motor home is a 2007, but we had rain damage in 2010 and the whole awning was brand name new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly such as suggestions as to exactly how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - perhaps even get us through the summertime - without having to put in a brand name brand-new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, however I would certainly instead discover a quick and reliable solution. Anybody? Please!.

Welcome to my RV Improvement Series!.?.!! I'm on action 5 of changing the roof of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I eliminated the roofing trim molding from three sides of the roof. However in order to remove the 4th one, I need to eliminate the recreational vehicle awning too.

In order to change the rubber roof covering and roofing system outdoor decking, I need to get rid of the awning. My recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be eliminated to set on the ground. Initially I pulled these out. Pressing this bar launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll likewise see just how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning requires to come off first before the last actions of this message (exposing the front and back sides of the roofing system decking).

Here's an information of just how the awning installing braces are screwed into the camper. I didn't in fact have to do this action till the awning was on the ground however I discovered this established screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's one more at the appropriate end of the awning.) I went ahead and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are removed, merely draw back on the brace. Loosening the huge lag screws that hold the RV awning installing braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Getting rid of the placing bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Note just how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the spherical corner at the rear of the roof covering.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning placing brace on the right. Eliminating the mounting brace of the awning. As soon as the installing brackets are detached, it's time to remove the awning rail. Remember, the awning rail is basically similar to a regular piece of light weight aluminum roofing side trim molding except that near the bottom edge there is a circular track with a port in it.

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To replace the roof covering, this awning bar requires to be gotten rid of. If you're just changing your awning and not fixing the whole roofing system like me, after that you would not require to get rid of the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a few notches to lower the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly. Now it's similar to eliminating the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Draw out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you might need to cut completion with an utility blade if it is tucked under the rail) and afterwards just tug it out.

You may have to reduce the end with an utility blade if it is wrapped under. Just tug it out!

When the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. (There will be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber under.) HEADS UP! When I began to tear off the awning rail, the entire point unexpectedly snapped off and rolled up into the awning like a window blind.

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When the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be torn up. As soon as you start drawing the awning rail away it will unexpectedly break complimentary and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me then reduce it the ground bit by bit by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side individually up until you can lay it on the ground. Then I flipped the legs back up and out of the way against the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're removed the rail just glides right off the canvas by sliding the whole rail to one side.

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When the 2 set screws were removed I could glide the entire awning rail right off the awning. One more look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of.

I tore them out as best I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded transition had some corroded staples quieting. I tore them out as best I could. The following point holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass home siding panels is the corner trim molding shown right here. It has a plastic screw cover strip put, so once more I simply pried up the vinyl insert and took out enough so I can unscrew some screw heads.

I might finish up removing it later if I need to change the luan plywood below this fiberglass change. To raise that, the edge molding must be eliminated.

After that I can turn the trim mold and mildew off the side sufficient to raise the side of the fiberglass panel. When I can swing that item of edge molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I switched from a scrape to a stiff 6 large putty blade. This piece broke out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to tear it up. Then I changed from a scraper to 6 inch broad taping knife. I loosened up the other edge trim in the exact same method, and bent it laterally simply enough so that I might lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. I had a substantial quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

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It's simply popping with the staples. Lastly the edge of the roofing system outdoor decking is exposed at the rear of the camper! OK! I've subjected the roofing substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to find the leading edge. Same offer once more. Eliminate some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I pried that layer up also (there had not been much stifling yet glue now) and then I might yank out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued underneath it. Currently I can pull out the last bit of rubber roof from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. It was simply glued. I started carefully peeling it up. I could see heaven styrofoam insulation below the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no fasteners in any way holding down the roof covering plywood! It is entirely glued.

When I scraped up some of the broken bits I obtained hold of a solid piece of plywood and started to draw. The entire thing began to draw up easily unscathed without damaging the foam board insulation in all. Now I could see the steel framework underneath. Then the plywood began peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a metal strengthened tape under that joins the items together. I do not recognize just how specifically they took care of to adhesive whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was perfectly done. The pieces of roof covering ply are joined with each other at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly realized the roofing was shedding toughness and tightness as I pulled up the top layer, so split it off prior to the first joint. A close up of the metal framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Below's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roofing system.

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I found a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. Which implies I'll finish removing those corner trim pieces all the method down. We'll get to that later. I had a considerable quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

The side of the roof decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I've revealed the roofing substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front side.

Once again, I tore that layer up too (there wasn't much quieting however adhesive now) and afterwards I could pull out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued underneath it. Norco Camper Awning Replacement. Currently I can pull out the last little rubber roof from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. It was just glued. I started meticulously peeling it up. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation under the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no fasteners in all holding down the roof plywood! It is completely glued.

When I scratched up some of the broken bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and started to pull. The entire point began to draw up easily in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel strengthened tape on the base that joins the assemble. I do not understand exactly how exactly they took care of to glue every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, but it was well done. The pieces of roof covering ply are signed up with with each other at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I promptly recognized the roof covering was losing strength and stiffness as I drew up the top layer, so fractured it off right before the initial joint. A close of the steel framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Right here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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