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Pop Up Camper Roof Repair Montclair

Published Jun 03, 25
11 min read

Camper Awning Replacement Montclair, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the securing handles tightened down.) I really did not see anything awry, but retracted both awning just to be secure. Most campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I uncovered that the gutter had been retreated from the wall surface (and downspout was missing out on) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It shows up that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (rain seamless gutter) that the awning is moved into has actually pulled away from the wall surface and turned a little bit - Pop Up Camper Roof Repair Montclair. I'm assuming the repair will involve replacing that whole size of gutter (10 feet?) and most likely making use of bigger scale screws to replace those that were pulled out

We have actually obtained broken brackets on our camper awning. Two months back, we had a negative tire blow-out that created a curved axle, significant repairs, and so on, and we ask yourself if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy ride prior to we recognized the axle was in difficulty. We haven't had the awning out since it remained in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, springtime system, etc, is great. The back brace assembly is fine, yet the front one is fractured at the bottom and totally broken through at the top, to make sure that the leading assistance arm no more affixes to the camper. We are in trouble. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Also the real assistance arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? The real arms are completely normal/functionalI'm just desiring to make sure we're not being taken in out of our despair (Pop Up Camper Roof Repair Montclair).

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one piece is broken it needs to be completely changed? The RV is a 2007, but we had rain damages in 2010 and the entire awning was brand-new back then. If nothing else, we would certainly such as guidance as to how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - maybe even get us via the summer - without having to place in a brand brand-new awning! We're in an extremely major bind since we have a trip intended in mid June that is not optional and can not be transformed or held off.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, but I prefer to locate a quick and efficient remedy. Any individual? Please!.

!! I'm on action 5 of changing the roof of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to remove the fourth one, I need to eliminate the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to change the rubber roofing system and roofing outdoor decking, I need to get rid of the awning. My Recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be removed to establish on the ground.

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You'll additionally see exactly how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires ahead off initially before the final steps of this blog post (exposing the front and back sides of the roofing decking).

Right here's an information of how the awning installing braces are screwed right into the camper. I didn't in fact have to do this step till the awning got on the ground however I discovered this set screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's another at the appropriate end of the awning.) I went ahead and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are eliminated, simply draw back on the brace. Loosening the big lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning mounting braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Removing the mounting brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Keep in mind just how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the spherical corner at the back of the roof covering.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning placing bracket on the. Removing the installing bracket of the awning.

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To replace the roofing system, this awning bar requires to be gotten rid of. If you're just replacing your awning and not fixing the whole roof like me, after that you wouldn't require to remove the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to lower the whole awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly. Now it's similar to removing the side trim molding on the various other side of the camper. Take out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you may need to reduce completion with an energy blade if it is tucked under the rail) and afterwards just pull it out.

You might need to cut the end with an utility knife if it is covered under. Just yank it out! Once the vinyl screw cover insert was out I eliminated the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went pretty promptly.

As soon as the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. When I began to tear off the awning rail, the whole point all of a sudden broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! When the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the edge of the rubber roof that was attached under it. As soon as you begin pulling the awning rail away it will instantly snap cost-free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me after that reduce it the ground gradually by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side one at a time up until you can lay it on the ground. Then I flipped the legs back up and off the beaten track versus the camper.

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After that I leaned the legs back against the camper. When the awning got on the ground I removed the little collection screw at the ideal end of the awning, (I got rid of the one at the left end previously.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're removed the rail simply glides right off the canvas by moving the entire rail away.

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As soon as both established screws were removed I might slide the entire awning rail right off the awning. Review at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last action prior to I can eliminate the old roofing outdoor decking is to reveal completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.

I pried them out as best I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some rustic staples quieting. I tore them out as best I could. The next point holding back the motor home fiberglass siding panels is the corner trim molding shown here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip inserted, so again I just tore up the plastic insert and took out sufficient so I can loosen some screw heads.

I may finish up removing it later if I require to change the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass transition. To raise that, the edge molding have to be eliminated.

I could swing the trim mold off the side sufficient to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. Once I might swing that piece of corner molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that point I changed from a scraper to 6 inch vast taping knife. I loosened up the other corner trim in the same method, and curved it sidewards simply sufficient so that I could lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which suggests I'll end removing those edge trim pieces all the means down. We'll obtain to that later on. I had a considerable quantity of water damage in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

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The edge of the roofing system outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I've revealed the roofing system substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to discover the front side.

Again, I tore that layer up as well (there wasn't much holding it down yet glue at this moment) and afterwards I could yank out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation under the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roof plywood!

As soon as I scuffed up some of the busted little bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and started to pull. The entire thing started to bring up easily unscathed without harming the foam board insulation in any way. Currently I can see the steel framework underneath. Then the plywood began peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a metal enhanced tape under that signs up with the items together. I don't know how specifically they took care of to adhesive every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was perfectly done. The pieces of roof ply are collaborated at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I promptly understood the roof was losing toughness and tightness as I pulled up the leading layer, so split it off right before the very first seam. A close up of the steel framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roof.

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I found a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. I had a substantial quantity of water damage in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.

It's simply popping through the staples. Lastly the side of the roof covering outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! OK! So I've exposed the roofing system substratum at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to find the leading edge. Same bargain once again. Remove some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I pried that layer up as well (there wasn't much holding it down but adhesive at this factor) and after that I might tug out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Pop Up Camper Roof Repair Montclair. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation under the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing plywood!

Once I scratched up some of the broken bits I got hold of a solid piece of plywood and started to pull. The whole point started to pull up easily in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel reinforced tape on the bottom that joins the items with each other. I don't recognize just how specifically they handled to glue whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was nicely done. The items of roofing ply are signed up with with each other at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly understood the roofing was shedding toughness and stiffness as I pulled up the top layer, so split it off prior to the very first joint. A close of the metal framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Below's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roofing system.

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