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Camper Roof Repair Near Me Fullerton

Published Jun 05, 25
11 min read

Camper Roof Replacement Fullerton, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

A lot of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is moved into has actually retreated from the wall and turned a bit - Camper Roof Repair Near Me Fullerton. I'm presuming the repair will entail changing that whole size of rain seamless gutter (10 feet?) and probably using bigger gauge screws to change those that were pulled out

We have actually obtained broken braces on our camper awning. Two months earlier, we had a negative tire blow-out that created a curved axle, major repair services, and so on, and we ask yourself if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy experience prior to we realized the axle remained in problem. We haven't had the awning out considering that it remained in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime system, and so on, is fine. The rear bracket assembly is great, but the front one is fractured at the base and entirely broken through on top, so that the leading support arm no longer fastens to the camper. We are in trouble. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Does this sound sensible? Also the actual assistance arms are intact. They are white metal (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a heavier grey metal - it's the gray bits that have actually cracked/broken. The actual arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm just wanting to see to it we're not being absorbed out of our anxiety.

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one piece is damaged it has to be completely changed? The RV is a 2007, but we had rainfall damages in 2010 and the whole awning was new back then. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly such as recommendations as to just how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - perhaps even obtain us with the summertime - without needing to place in a new awning! We're in a really major bind due to the fact that we have actually a trip planned in mid June that is not optional and can not be changed or held off.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, but I 'd rather locate a quick and effective option. Anybody? Please!.

Welcome to my Motor Home Improvement Collection!.?.!! I'm on action 5 of replacing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I removed the roof trim molding from three sides of the roofing system. However in order to get rid of the 4th one, I require to get rid of the motor home awning also.

In order to change the rubber roofing and roof outdoor decking, I need to eliminate the awning. My motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be gotten rid of to set on the ground. Initially I pulled these out. Pushing this lever launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll likewise observe just how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires ahead off initially before the last actions of this article (revealing the front and back edges of the roof covering decking).

Here's an information of how the awning installing braces are screwed right into the camper. I didn't in fact need to do this action until the awning got on the ground however I discovered this set screw here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's another at the ideal end of the awning.) I went ahead and loosened it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, merely draw back on the bracket. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the motor home awning placing braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Removing the installing brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Note how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the spherical corner at the rear of the roof covering.

Both lag screws removed from the awning placing brace on the. Removing the mounting bracket of the awning.

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To change the roof covering, this awning bar needs to be gotten rid of. If you're just changing your awning and not repairing the whole roofing like me, after that you would not need to remove the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to lower the whole awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently. Now it's similar to getting rid of the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Pull out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you might need to cut completion with an energy knife if it is put under the rail) and afterwards just yank it out.

You may have to reduce the end with an energy blade if it is wrapped under. Simply pull it out!

As soon as the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. When I started to pry off the awning rail, the whole point unexpectedly broke off and rolled up into the awning like a home window blind.

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Just know it's coming! Once the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the side of the rubber roofing that was attached under it. As soon as you start pulling the awning rail away it will suddenly break totally free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me then reduce it the ground bit by bit by walking the legs away from the camper on each side one by one until you can lay it on the ground. Then I flipped the legs back up and off the beaten track against the camper.

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I leaned the legs back versus the camper. When the awning got on the ground I got rid of the little collection screw at the right end of the awning, (I removed the one at the left end earlier.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail simply glides straight off the canvas by gliding the whole rail to one side.

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When the 2 established screws were removed I could move the entire awning rail right off the awning. Review at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last action before I can remove the old roofing decking is to reveal completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

I pried them out as ideal I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some corroded staples quieting. I pried them out as best I could. The next point holding back the motor home fiberglass house siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed right here. It has a plastic screw cover strip inserted, so again I just tore up the plastic insert and took out enough so I can loosen some screw heads.

I may end up removing it later on if I require to change the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass transition. To lift that, the edge molding must be eliminated.

After that I could turn the trim mold and mildew off the side sufficient to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. Once I might swing that piece of edge molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in area.

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I changed from a scraper to a tight 6 large putty blade. This item broke out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to tear it up. At that point I switched from a scrape to 6 inch broad taping knife. After that I loosened the various other edge trim similarly, and bent it laterally just sufficient to make sure that I could lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I located a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. Which indicates I'll end eliminating those edge trim items right down besides. However we'll reach that later. I had a substantial quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

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It's simply popping through the staples. The edge of the roof decking is subjected at the back of the camper! OK! So I've exposed the roofing system substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to discover the leading edge. Same offer once more. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I pried that layer up as well (there wasn't much stifling yet adhesive at this moment) and after that I could tug out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Now I can draw out the last bit of rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

As soon as I scratched up some of the broken bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and began to pull. The whole thing started to pull up cleanly in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal enhanced tape under that joins the items together. I do not understand just how exactly they managed to glue everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was perfectly done. The pieces of roofing system ply are joined with each other at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I promptly understood the roofing system was shedding toughness and tightness as I brought up the top layer, so split it off right before the very first joint. A close up of the metal framing in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Below's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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I found a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. I had a considerable quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

It's simply standing out via the staples. Ultimately the edge of the roofing system decking is subjected at the rear of the camper! OK! So I've revealed the roofing system substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to find the front side. Same offer again. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I tore that layer up too (there wasn't much stifling yet glue at this moment) and after that I can tug out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued beneath it. Camper Roof Repair Near Me Fullerton. Now I can pull out the last little rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof covering plywood!

As soon as I scratched up several of the busted bits I acquired a solid item of plywood and started to draw. The whole point began to pull up easily unscathed without harming the foam board insulation at all. Now I can see the steel framework under. Yet after that the plywood began peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel strengthened tape under that signs up with the pieces together. I don't recognize just how specifically they took care of to glue everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was perfectly done. The items of roofing ply are joined together at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly understood the roof covering was losing stamina and stiffness as I pulled up the leading layer, so fractured it off prior to the very first seam. A close up of the steel framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roofing system.

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